5 1/4 ounces white sugar (about 3/4 cup; 150g), plain or lightly toasted
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon (1g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
5 1/4 ounces best-quality extra-virgin olive oil (about 3/4 cup; 150g)
4 ounces cultured low-fat buttermilk or kefir (about 1/2 cup; 110g)
1 large egg (about 1 3/4 ounces; 50g), straight from the fridge
1/2 teaspoon orange flower water
5 3/4 ounces (about 1 1/4 cups, spooned; 165g) cake flour, any style

• 1. Getting Ready: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 350°F (180°C). Line an 8- by 3-inch anodized aluminum cake pan with parchment and grease lightly with pan spray.
  2. For the Cake: Whisk sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt together in a medium bowl for about 1 minute. This dry mixture will look homogeneous well before it truly is, so use patience at this stage, and whisk longer than may seem necessary. Under-mixing at this stage can produce dark spots or an uneven texture in the cake.
  3. Add lemon zest, olive oil, buttermilk, egg, and orange flower water and whisk vigorously until batter looks smooth and well emulsified. Sift in cake flour and whisk just until well combined. Scrape into prepared pan. Bake until the cake is firm, but your finger can still leave an impression in the puffy crust, about 33 minutes. (A toothpick inserted into the center should come away with a few crumbs still attached.)